Nomaden in einer neuen Rolle

MOGADISCHU – Eine meiner frühesten Kindheitserinnerungen ist das Baden in einer kleinen Wasserfurche in der Nähe des Hauses meiner Großmutter in Yaaq Bari Wayne; einer staubigen Ansammlung von Lehmbauten mit Blechdächern, die eng aneinandergedrängt in den Ebenen der Region Bay im Süden Somalias stehen. Nach der großen Regenzeit, die Gu genannt wird, sammelte sich das Wasser in einer tiefen, dreieckigen Spalte und aus der Wasserfurche wurde ein mit schlammigem Wasser gefülltes Becken. Dieses Becken hat eine magische Anziehungskraft auf die Kinder ausgeübt, die mit großem Gejuchze von Vorsprüngen aus in die trübe Tiefe sprangen.

Viele dieser Kinder gehörten zu den nomadischen Hirten, die im Mai und Juni auf der Suche nach besseren Weideflächen gen Süden zogen. Wenn sie ankamen, entstanden am Rande des Ortes kuppelförmige Hütten aus gebogenen Ästen, die mit bunten Matten abgedeckt wurden und wie eine Ansammlung gescheckter Käfer aussahen.

Für mich war der Nomade eine romantische Figur, ähnlich wie der amerikanische Cowboy aus dem Wilden Westen. In der rauesten Gegend der Welt zurrten sie ihre gesamte Habe auf dem Rücken eines Kamels fest, um hunderte von Kilometern durchs Land zu ziehen und sich dabei von Kamelmilch und Dörrfleisch zu ernähren.

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