Una China seca

ANSHUN, PROVINCIA DE GUIZHOU (CHINA) – Las cataratas de Huangguoshu, en la provincia Guizhou de la China sudoccidental, son un espectáculo magnífico, cuando hay agua. Son las mayores cataratas de Asia y caen por un acantilado de más de 70 metros de altura con una exhibición de espuma, rocío y arcos iris.

Lamentablemente, esa maravilla de la naturaleza ha sufrido recientemente una indignidad. Todas las noches, se corta su curso, como si fueran una fuente de un jardín. Esa parte de la China sudoccidental, conocida por sus abundantes precipitaciones, montañas, ríos y cuevas subterráneos y flora tropical, ha padecido recientemente una sequía que, según dicen muchos, es la peor desde la dinastía Ming.

De modo que, después de que todos los turistas que riegan esa región pobre con considerables ingresos abandonan los miradores situados bajo las cataratas, las autoridades cierran las compuertas que engolfan el río de Aguas Blancas en la represa, situada aguas arriba y peligrosamente baja, y las cataratas dejan de correr. Después, todas las mañanas, antes de que vuelvan a aparecer los turistas, abren de nuevo y sin ceremonias las compuertas, con lo que las cataratas, misteriosamente silenciosas, reviven de repente en un simulacro de normalidad.

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