绿色的格瓦拉

上周在马迪迪国家公园,一位对我说:“玻利维亚是片富饶的土地。” 那天一早,我们就看见了上百只僧帽猴和松鼠猴从亚马逊遮天蔽日的丛林中一路冲下来,跑到查拉澜湖(Lake Chalalan)边休憩,而那位特迦拿印第安妇女的萨满表姐,在夜幕降临,传统鼓声响起、人们又开始跳舞的时候,虔诚地颂扬着神圣的古柯叶。

这就是查拉澜小屋,一个完全由印第安人拥有和经营的生态旅游项目。因为它的存在, 当地100多个家庭在摆脱贫困的同时,还为玻利维亚创造了每年高达50万美元的利润。从南部全球最大的盐沼、到西部的的的喀喀湖,再到东部的潘塔纳尔沼泽地,类似这样把经济增长和生态保护相结合的旅游项目还有许多。玻利维亚的民主体系非常脆弱,是该半球仅次于海地的穷困国家,在这里能经营起这样的项目,看起来似乎有些不可思议。

随着12月18日总统大选的临近,那些一路领先的候选人们已经很难拉开距离。首先是埃沃·莫拉莱斯,一位Amayra印第安人,在社会主义运动的旗帜下,他有时被看做是玻利维亚第二个切•格瓦拉。埃沃之后就是Jorge “Tuto” Quoroga,他是身价百万的前IBM董事,一位精干的欧洲玻利维亚籍后裔。他与美国共和党联系密切,而且娶了德克萨斯州一位名叫金格(Ginger)的金发女郎。

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