El espejo alemán de Francia

BERLÍN – El aeropuerto Tegel de Berlín, que aún sigue recibiendo a la mayoría de los pasajeros que llegan a la capital de la potencia económica principal de Europa, es anticuado y provinciano. La inauguración del aeropuerto de Schönefeld, transformado en un aeropuerto internacional principal, se ha retrasado durante más de un año por razones técnicas (golpe algo tranquilizador a la fama de eficiencia de Alemania). Sin embargo, pese a la grisura y al frío de marzo en la Europa central, Berlín exuda confianza. Más que nunca, la ciudad es una obra en marcha: confusa, no demasiado hermosa y recargada de historia.

Berlín es una obra de construcción que ha logrado transformar sus múltiples pasados en energía positiva. “La diversidad destruida: Berlín, 1933-1938” es el tema unificador de una serie de exposiciones del 80º aniversario de la llegada de Hitler al poder y el 75º de la Pogromnacht. En el Deutsches Historisches Museum en Unter den Linden, clases enteras de alumnos y estudiantes acuden en tropel a ver la evocación que en ellas se hace de la destrucción por un régimen criminal cuyos objetos, desde los altavoces hasta las armas, pasando por los uniformes, están dispuestos de forma pedagógica.

Los jóvenes berlineses no pueden desconocer de dónde proceden. Sin embargo, tal vez porque el pasado sigue sonando como una advertencia –y está aún físicamente visible en la topografía y la arquitectura de la ciudad actual– Berlín resulta deslumbrante con su sencillez, su modernidad radiante (simbolizada por la cúpula de cristal del Reichstag, creación del arquitecto británico Norman Foster) y, sobre todo, su intensidad.

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