O Espelho Alemão da França

BERLIM – O Aeroporto de Tegel em Berlim, que ainda saúda a maioria dos passageiros que chegam à capital da principal potência económica da Europa, é obsoleto e provinciano. A abertura do Aeroporto de Schönefeld, transformado numa plataforma internacional, foi adiada por mais de um ano devido a razões técnicas (um desafio algo tranquilizante à reputação de eficiência da Alemanha). Porém, apesar do Março cinzento e fresco da Europa Central, Berlim emana confiança. Mais do que nunca, a cidade está em constante evolução – confusa, não muito bonita, e sobrecarregada de história.

Berlim é um estaleiro que tem conseguido transformar os seus múltiplos passados em energia positiva. “Diversidade destruída: Berlim 1933-1938” é o tema unificador de uma série de exposições que marcam o 80º aniversário da chegada ao poder de Hitler e o 75º da Pogromnacht. No Deutsches Historisches Museum na Unter den Linden, turmas inteiras de jovens pupilos e estudantes aglomeram-se para ver uma exposição evocativa da destruição efectuada por um regime criminoso cujos objectos, desde altifalantes até uniformes e armas, estão expostos de um modo educacional.

Os jovens Berlinenses não podem ignorar de onde vêm. Porém, talvez porque o passado continua a soar como um aviso – e ainda é fisicamente visível na topografia e na arquitectura actuais da cidade – Berlim é surpreendente na sua simplicidade, na sua modernidade radiosa (simbolizada pela cúpula de vidro do Reichstag, concebida pelo arquitecto Britânico Norman Foster) e, acima de tudo, na sua intensidade.

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