德国映照出的法国镜像

柏林——虽然柏林的泰格尔机场依然迎候着飞抵这个欧洲经济大国的多数旅客,但相关的设施却早已落后而破旧不堪。完成向国际枢纽转型的舍内费尔德机场由于技术原因而推迟开放超过一年(这对德国以效率著称的声望构成了某种挑战)。虽然早春三月的中欧阴沉而寒冷,但柏林仍然散发出自信的气息。此外,虽然在历史的重压下迷茫而并不美轮美奂,但柏林仍处在发展之中。

柏林是一个将多重过去成功转化为正能量的大工地。“柏林1933-1938:多样性的毁灭”是希特勒执政80周年暨水晶之夜75周年系列纪念展的统一主题。在菩提树下大街的德国历史博物馆,整班的年轻学生蜂拥而来参观犯罪政权所展现的破坏力:从高音喇叭、制服到武器,犯罪政权曾经的历史罪证现在被用于教育目的。

年轻的柏林人不能忘记过去。但或许因为过去仍然警钟长鸣(而且在今天的城市建筑地貌中仍然依稀可辨),柏林城的简单、(以英国建筑师诺曼·福斯特设计的国会大厦玻璃穹顶为代表的)容光焕发的现代感还有激情都令人忍不住赞叹。

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