L'homme, le surf et la vague

MELBOURNE – Pour moi comme pour la plupart des Australiens, les vacances d'été sont synonymes de mer. Depuis ma plus tendre enfance je nage et je joue avec les vagues pour finalement faire du bodyboard, même si je n'ai pas saisi l'occasion d'apprendre à tenir debout sur une planche de surf.

J'ai finalement comblé ce manque à plus de 50 ans - trop vieux pour devenir vraiment bon, mais suffisamment jeune pour que le surf me réserve une dizaine d'années de plaisir et me donne le sentiment de réussir. Durant cet été austral, je suis de retour en Australie et joue à nouveau avec les vagues.

Lorsque je suis allé surfé aujourd'hui, j'ai entendu parlé d'une cérémonie qui a eu lieu au début de cet été austral - un adieu à un surfer local mort à un âge avancé. Ses amis surfeurs pagayaient assis sur leur planche tout en formant un cercle au moment de disperser ses cendres à la surface de l'océan. D'autres amis et sa famille étaient présents et regardaient la scène, certains au bord du rivage, d'autres du sommet d'une falaise. On m'a dit qu'il avait été l'un des meilleurs surfeurs de la région, mais c'était à une époque où l'argent n'avait pas pénétré ce sport.

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