冲浪的反思

墨尔本——像多数澳大利亚人一样,我总爱选择去海边度暑假。从小我就在波涛中游泳嬉戏,最后开始玩冲浪板,但不知何故没有学会站在冲浪板上冲浪。

年过半百时我终于弥补了这一缺憾——虽然这么大年纪使我很难自如掌握,但却不妨碍冲浪给我带来10多年的乐趣和成就感。这个南半球的夏天,我重回澳大利亚下海冲浪。

在今天冲浪的海滩上,我听说冲浪季开始时举行过一个送别在耄耋之年过世的当地冲浪者的仪式。曾和他一道冲浪的伙伴们划向大海,围成一个圆圈坐在冲浪板上,静静注视着他的骨灰撒在海面上。其他家人和朋友站在海边或崖顶默默地注视着这一仪式。有人告诉我他曾是最好的冲浪者之一,但当时冲浪运动还无法带来经济回报。

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