普京的方舟

不久前,阔别5年的我重返莫斯科。这座城市看上去不同而且怪异,其变化的能力令我感到惊讶。我返回俄国的日子白天参加官方会议,在交通拥堵中浪费几个钟头,晚上则跟着老友领略莫斯科最繁华的夜生活。

第一个自由活动的夜晚,我应邀来到了一个叫“Shinok”的地方。和随处可见的民族饭馆一样,这里也有很多相似的特征。不同风格的手工艺品,像这里的乌克兰风格,得到了完美的体现。但这里的内部装饰有一点与众不同ľ一面嵌着窗户的人造墙把餐馆的厅堂分成了两半,墙后面布置成了一个乡村庭院。

这个人造庭院里栓了一头真奶牛,还散养着不少鸡鹅。一位身着传统服饰的老年妇女不时走来饲喂动物。喝着罗宋汤吃着馅饼的客人满意地看着她劳作。“她为饭馆工作,”我的朋友解释说。“她或是饲喂动物,或是坐在当院,创造一种乡野氛围。”

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