Poverty Protest in front of Bucharest Parliament Daniel Mihailescu/Getty Images

富裕阶层的民粹主义

布加勒斯特——最近我游览了布加勒斯特议会宫,这座奢侈靡费但却徒劳无功的建筑是二十世纪八十年代应已故罗马尼亚独裁者齐奥塞斯库的命令修建的,但齐奥塞斯库本人却在这座宫殿完工前就遭到了处决。导游所背诵的数据令人惊讶:世界第三大建筑、耗费高达220,000平方英尺地毯、100万立方米大理石、3,500吨水晶。巨型大理石楼梯被迫数次改建,才恰好配合独裁者那矮小的身躯。

为修建这座新古典主义的怪诞建筑,曾经星罗棋布着十八世纪住宅、教堂和犹太会堂的美丽的大片城市被夷为平地,导致4万人无家可归。100多万人为此日夜马不停蹄。这座宫殿几乎造成政府破产,即使齐奥塞斯库的臣民们多数时候过着既不供暖也不用电的日子。现在每年的维护费用仍高达600万美元,目前只有罗马尼亚议会和艺术博物馆两家使用者,因此70%的面积处于空置。

齐奥赛斯库的浩大工程是一座妄自尊大者的纪念碑。但这绝不意味着它独一无二,当然唯一例外的是它的规模(尽管土耳其总统雷杰普·塔伊普·埃尔多安曾试图在安卡拉修建规模能与之相媲美的新建筑)。某种类型的妄自尊大者想法总是惊人的一致,至少在建筑方面的审美情趣几乎相同。希特勒的柏林重建计划体现出一模一样的新古典巨型主义。而布加勒斯特宫殿的内部装饰不过是唐纳德·特朗普在佛罗里达和纽约住所的升级豪华版,采用了令人心跳加速的路易十四风格。

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